Does Dermaplaning Make Hair Grow Back Thicker?
No. Dermaplaning cuts fine peach fuzz at the surface, and cutting a hair cannot change the follicle it grows from. It grows back just as soft and light. Here is why it can briefly feel different, and when facial hair needs a doctor.
The Short Answer: No
Dermaplaning does not make hair grow back thicker, darker or faster. It is the most common worry I hear before a first dermaplaning appointment, and it is understandable, but it is a myth. Dermaplaning removes the fine, light hair known as vellus hair, or peach fuzz, by cutting it at the surface of the skin. The thickness, color and growth rate of a hair are set by the follicle beneath the skin, and a blade gliding across the surface never reaches the follicle. Peach fuzz grows back exactly as it was.
Why It Can Feel Different for a Few Days
There is a real reason the myth survives. A hair that grows naturally has a soft, tapered tip. When it is cut, the new end is blunt. As that blunt end grows out over the following week or two, it can feel slightly coarse to your fingertips, and in certain light it can look a little more noticeable. That is the cut tip, not a thicker hair. Once the hair grows to its full length, it feels the same as it always did. Most of my clients never notice any of this; a few notice it for a few days.
Peach Fuzz Is Not the Same as Coarse Facial Hair
Your face has two kinds of hair. Vellus hair is short, fine and nearly colorless, and it covers most of the face. Terminal hair is thicker and darker, like the hair on your scalp or eyebrows. Dermaplaning is designed for vellus hair. It is not the right treatment for dark, coarse hairs on the chin, jaw or upper lip, which are better handled by waxing, threading or other methods. During your appointment I work around those areas or suggest a better option.
When Facial Hair Is Worth Mentioning to Your Doctor
If you notice dark, coarse hair appearing where you did not have it before, especially on the chin, jaw or upper lip, it is worth mentioning to your doctor. New coarse facial hair can be linked to hormonal changes, including conditions such as polycystic ovary syndrome, and some medications can cause it too. This is not something an esthetician should diagnose, and dermaplaning will not cause it. I would rather you know the difference and get it checked.
What Dermaplaning Actually Does
With the myth out of the way, the real benefits are simple. Removing dead skin cells and peach fuzz leaves skin smoother and brighter, makeup goes on more evenly, and skincare products absorb better. Most clients come in every 3 to 4 weeks, often paired with a facial. Dermaplaning is $40 at my studio, and my Dermaplaning 101 post walks through exactly what happens at your first appointment.
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Dermaplaning
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Nurturing facial treatments that address your skin holistically for radiant, healthy skin
Facial Waxing
Professional eyebrow shaping, upper lip, chin, and full face waxing using gentle, hypoallergenic wax.
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